| NOVICES INTERVIEWING BREEDERS PART 3 PRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM JILL SWEDLOW |
| 5. Ok, you’ve got the big stuff out of the way. The other questions are often dependent on exactly what ‘quality’ of puppy you want. If you’re going to show, you want to be reasonably assured that you’re getting a puppy of show quality. Ask the breeder about their recent success in the ring. Hopefully you’re familiar with relatives of the litter and they’re of good quality. Ask how many of the puppies are already reserved. This is important if you’re serious about a good show prospect. If most are taken, perhaps you should consider waiting for another litter, where you could perhaps get first or second choice puppy. Another advantage to waiting for another litter is you have more time to become acquainted with the breeder. None of us want to take a chance on having our best show prospects go to someone who wants a ‘show’ puppy but has no intention of showing. Many people think that a ‘pet’ puppy is inferior. Not true. But don’t be surprised if you have to prove your sincerity to the breeder. 6. Obviously you want to see a dog set up that is kept clean and that doesn’t stink. Although puppies tend to mess up as quickly as we clean up, there’s no excuse for a house that reeks of urine and feces. Pups should be clean, active and healthy looking. They should also readily approach you with interest and curiosity. If they hang back or slink away, this is not a good litter. Or it hasn’t been properly socialized. In any case, you’re wise not to buy one. 7. Ask if the breeder has a written contract. Read it thoroughly before you sign. Your puppy should come to you with the ‘blue slip’ which is actually the AKC registration application. Additionally the breeder should provide you with a 4-5 generation pedigree, a list of what the puppy has been eating plus a small supply of same to last a couple days. You should also receive a record of any vaccines and wormings the puppy has had to date and what is due next. 8. The breeder should extend a minimum 48 hour health guarantee and take the puppy back if it should be found ill by a vet. Additionally a breeder should be willing to take the dog back at any age if you cannot keep it any longer. These innocent babies didn’t ask to be born. The breeder is entirely responsible for it’s existence and well being. A breeder who isn’t willing to shoulder this responsibility shouldn’t breed. 9. The breeder should actively encourage you to ask questions, call at any hour with any size problem, and take an on going interest in the puppy once he’s living in your home. Most breeders will. Armed with the right questions, it’s much easier to find the right breeder. And to my fellow breeders out there, who are wondering; ‘well, what about us, what about the times we’ve sold pups to people who seemed great who turned out terrible?' Yes, of course this works both ways but so often it really is the new person who gets turned off to our breed. Without the constant infusion of new blood into this sport, we cannot survive in the future. Let’s help each and every sincere novice who comes wandering through our door excited by their love of Great Danes and full of the questions we’ve heard a million times! |